TRIP + PLATE + 365 days
Some food reputations are built on nostalgia and maintained by inertia — the famous restaurant that was once excellent and now coasts on its name. Tai Cheong Bakery is not that. I visited in the evening, stopping after dinner at Tsim Chai Kee nearby, and found an egg tart that justified every word written about … Read more
The final morning of a Hong Kong trip has a particular quality — the awareness that you’re eating your last meal in the city before a long return journey, the desire to end on something that captures what the visit has been. I chose Lan Fong Yuen on the morning of January, walking from the … Read more
Hong Kong takes its wonton noodles seriously. Not in the way that tourists are told to take things seriously — not because it’s on a list or because a celebrity chef mentioned it — but in the way that a city takes seriously the thing it has been eating every day for a century. The … Read more
There is no more Hong Kong institution than the cha chaan teng. Not the harbor view, not the night market, not even the dim sum — the cha chaan teng is where Hong Kong actually lives, every morning, every afternoon, and late into the evening. I visited three of the city’s most celebrated examples during … Read more