Wonton Noodles in Hong Kong: A Complete Guide

Hong Kong takes its wonton noodles seriously. Not in the way that tourists are told to take things seriously — not because it’s on a list or because a celebrity chef mentioned it — but in the way that a city takes seriously the thing it has been eating every day for a century. The … Read more

Hong Kong Egg Tart Guide: Tai Cheong vs Bakehouse (And Everything In Between)

Hong Kong’s egg tart is one of the city’s most beloved food objects — a pastry that exists in a specific form nowhere else in the world, the product of a particular local history and a particular local taste. I ate egg tarts at two of Hong Kong’s most celebrated establishments during my January trip: … Read more

Temple Street Night Market: Complete Guide to Hong Kong’s Most Atmospheric Market

Temple Street arrives in layers. The first thing you notice is the smell — grilled meats and incense mixing in the narrow lanes before you’ve seen a single stall. Then the noise — vendors calling, Cantonese opera from somewhere deeper in the market, the general compression of sound that a covered street market at full … Read more

Mong Kok Travel Guide: Hong Kong’s Most Intense Neighborhood

Mong Kok doesn’t ease you in. From the moment you come up from the MTR and hit the street level, the neighborhood announces itself — the density of people, the noise of competing music from adjacent shops, the smell of street food mixing with the exhaust of buses on Nathan Road, the vertical stacking of … Read more

Hong Kong Food Guide: What to Eat and Where

Hong Kong has one of the most distinctive food cultures in Asia — a city where a bowl of wonton noodles served in a ten-seat shophouse can be as carefully considered as anything in a Michelin-starred restaurant, and where the morning ritual of yum cha (dim sum with tea) is taken as seriously as any … Read more